A Glimpse into History

Built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, the Basilica Cistern served as a crucial water filtration system for the Great Palace of Constantinople. Its construction was part of a grand effort to secure a reliable water supply for the city during times of siege or drought.

Architectural Marvels

The cistern spans an impressive 9,800 square meters and has a capacity of over 80,000 cubic meters of water. Its most striking feature is its forest of 336 marble columns, each standing at a towering 9 meters tall. These columns, sourced from various ancient ruins across the Byzantine Empire, support the arched ceiling and create an otherworldly atmosphere as visitors wander through the dimly lit chambers.

Medusa’s Gaze

Among the many wonders within the Basilica Cistern, none capture the imagination quite like the two Medusa heads that serve as the bases for two of the columns.

Neither of the Medusa heads are facing upright, with one positioned sideways and the other resting upside-down, sparking countless theories and legends about their origins and placement. Some speculate that they were repurposed from an earlier structure, while others believe they were deliberately placed to negate the snake-haired monster’s powers and ward off evil spirits.

Restoration and Preservation Efforts

Over the centuries, the Basilica Cistern fell into disrepair and was forgotten by all but a few locals who knew of its existence and who collected water, and even fish, by lowering buckets through holes in their basements.

It wasn’t until the 16th century that it was rediscovered by European travelers, who were awestruck by its beauty and historical significance. Since then, various restoration efforts have been undertaken to preserve this architectural gem for future generations to appreciate.

Restorations were launched in 2017 and during the process, it was discovered that the cistern was at risk of collapsing in the event of an earthquake, which the country is prone to. As part of the restoration, the iron bearings between the columns that had been fitted in the early years of the republic and corroded over time were replaced so the structure can withstand potential tremors.

Visitor Experience

Today, the Basilica Cistern remains one of Istanbul’s most popular tourist attractions, drawing visitors from around the world to marvel at its ancient grandeur. Guided tours provide insight into its history and significance, while the soft lighting and eerie ambiance create an unforgettable experience for all who venture into its depths.

The Basilica Cistern stands as a silent witness to the passage of time, bearing testament to the enduring legacy of Byzantine engineering and the rich tapestry of Istanbul’s history. As visitors descend into its depths, they are transported back in time to an era of emperors and conquests, where the echoes of the past reverberate through the hallowed halls of this remarkable subterranean sanctuary.

Sources: DK Eyewitness Travel Turkey/Daily Sabah

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On June 28th and 29th, BBC News Channel’s flagship food programme Discovering The World’s Table follows chef and food influencer Julie Lin (@julielincooks) as she journeys to Istanbul, the only city in the world that spans two continents, to explore its rich and evolving culinary landscape.

Julie begins her adventure in the bustling Grand Bazaar, guided by local food influencer Ezgi Toper (@istbucketlist). Together, they sample iconic Turkish street food such as döner kebab and kokoreç, before visiting the historic Pandeli restaurant to witness the preparation of kazandibi, a traditional Ottoman dessert made with chicken.

Next, Julie sets sail on the Bosphorus Strait with rising culinary star Burcu Önal, known for her bold fusion of Eastern flavours. After catching fresh sardines, the pair return to Burcu’s restaurant, Sini Ethnic, where they craft sushi using Turkish ingredients and techniques.

Crossing into the Asian side of Istanbul, Julie visits the vibrant neighbourhood of Kadıköy and steps into the fast-paced kitchen of Yanyali, a beloved canteen-style restaurant serving up to 300 diners daily. There, she meets co-owner Ergin Bey and joins the team to help meet the lunchtime rush.

Julie’s final stop takes her back across the Bosphorus to Sarıyer, where she meets Sinem Özler, a self-taught chef dedicated to preserving Anatolian culinary traditions. After sourcing fresh produce from a local market, they head to Sinem’s acclaimed restaurant, Seraf, where Julie helps prepare dishes rooted in centuries-old recipes.

Julie Lin, co-presenter of Discovering The World’s Table said “I completely fell in love with Istanbul. It’s a city of surprises. I saw completely unexpected ideas and combinations, from sweet chicken to Bosphorus sushi to Ottoman specialities and crucially I discovered that fusion in Istanbul isn’t a modern idea and has in fact been going on for centuries. But the real discovery were the people – I met women in these kitchens who are both preserving and reinventing these traditions.”

Discovering The World’s Table: Istanbul’s Food Fusion airs on the BBC News Channel on Saturday 28^th June at 01:30 and 07:30 and on Sunday 29^th June at 14:30 and 21:30 (All times GMT).

This film was made by Tern TV, part of Zinc Media Group.

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What Makes Istiklal Special?

Historic Trams: The nostalgic red trams are a beloved symbol of Istanbul, running along the avenue and offering a charming ride through history.

Architectural Beauty: A stunning mix of neoclassical and art nouveau buildings

Shopping & Dining: From international brands to cozy cafes and street food vendors

Culture & Entertainment: Home to theatres, film premieres, and cultural landmarks

Nightlife: A buzzing scene with bars, live music, and clubs

Things to Do

Take a tram ride on the iconic red tram for a nostalgic experience

Stroll along the street and take in the sights

Visit historical and cultural landmarks

Shop for unique finds and dine in authentic restaurants

Experience the lively nightlife

Try delicious street food, from roasted chestnuts to simit and döner

Whether you’re visiting for the first time or have called Istanbul home for years, Istiklal Avenue never loses its allure. From strolling past historic landmarks and enjoying street performances to sipping Turkish tea at a cosy café, it is always brimming with life. It’s a vibrant reflection of Istanbul, where tradition and modernity seamlessly intertwine.

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Known for its lively nightlife, Kadıköy offers an array of entertainment options, from vibrant bars and clubs to cozy cafes and theaters. The streets are lined with an eclectic mix of shops, featuring everything from trendy boutiques to traditional markets, creating a perfect blend of modern and classic Istanbul. Mick and Trudie explore this dynamic neighborhood, highlighting its unique charm and vibrant atmosphere.

To see more videos by Mick & Trudie, subscribe to their YouTube channel: Mick and Trudie

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Mick & Trudie explore famous landmarks and uncover the rich history behind this unique district. Once as renowned as Trafalgar Square in London, Taksim continues to captivate visitors with its dynamic energy and cultural significance.

Join them as we delve into the past and present of this bustling area, discovering why it remains a must-visit destination.

To see more videos by Mick & Trudie, subscribe to their YouTube channel: Mick and Trudie

Follow Mick and Trudie on Facebook: Mick Amca (and Trudie)

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In this video, the first part of the series, Mick & Trudie explore the enchanting Sultanahmet region, home to some of Istanbul’s most iconic touristic sites.

They’ll guide you on how to navigate this historic area, suggest the best places to stay, and provide tips on getting there.

Join them as they uncover the magic of Sultanahmet, and stay tuned for future episodes where they delve into the vibrant neighborhoods of Kadıkoy, Beyoğlu, Taksim, and other hidden gems of this magnificent city.

To see more videos by Mick & Trudie, subscribe to their YouTube channel: Mick and Trudie

Follow Mick and Trudie on Facebook: Mick Amca (and Trudie)

Follow Mick and Trudie on Instagram: mickamca_andtrudie

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Hagia Sophia is one of the historical architectural wonders that still remains standing today.

Millions of visitors come here each year to marvel at the unrivaled architecture and breathtaking interiors—and, perhaps, to get a sense of the civilizations that have claimed the Hagia Sophia as their own.

Passed along from the Greeks to the Ottomans and many more, the Hagia Sophia tells a number of stories.

Many faiths have prayed at the Hagia Sophia

Two basilicas stood at this site before the current building was erected: the Church of Constantius II and the Church of Theodosius II.

In 532, not long after the destruction of the second church, Byzantine Emperor Justinian I called for an even more ornate church to be constructed.

What we know as the Hagia Sophia opened its doors in 537, and served as the seat of the Eastern Orthodox Patriarch of Constantinople. It briefly fell into the hands of Roman Catholicism (from 1204 until 1261) during The Crusades. In 1453, the Hagia Sophia became an imperial mosque when the Ottomans conquered the city. It would remain an Islamic house of worship until 1935, when it was secularized and converted to a museum.

In 2020, a controversial decision was made by the state of Türkiye. The Hagia Sophia was converted back to a mosque. The decision was met with much scrutiny as protestors argued the landmark was rightfully a Christian church. Nonetheless, the Hagia Sophia was converted to a mosque and Muslims were able to worship at the monument again. 

It boasts ingenious architecture

Much of the Hagia Sophia’s preliminary structure shows Byzantine innovation. The dome, for example, is uniquely supported by four pendentives—the first building to employ those curving, triangular vaults. And the 40 windows that line the base of the dome don’t just serve to channel in natural light. They also help to ease the weight of the dome upon the entire structure.

Each successive culture has left its mark on the Hagia Sophia, too. The four widely famed minarets, for example, are a prominent feature of Islamic design.

The intricate mosaics tell a tale

While many of the original mosaics that portrayed Christian imagery were destroyed when the Hagia Sophia became a mosque (or were shipped to Italy by Crusaders), some were discovered when the structure became a museum. For centuries, the artworks were preserved behind ornate Islamic tile work.

The Deësis Mosaic, created at the end of the Catholic period, is particularly intriguing because it depicts Jesus Christ as someone else. Some researchers believe Apollonius of Tyana, a Greek philosopher, sits in Christ’s place. According to this theory, Christ is fictional, and Apollonius served as a model for the story.

Waters of panacea attract the ill

Many visitors flock here to drink from two water wells, hailed for their purported healing powers. It is said that if you drank three times in a row, on Saturdays, from the well in the main hall, you would be cured of illness.

Another site, known as the Sweating Column, puzzles guests because it remains constantly wet even on the hottest days.

At its base is a hole through which many place a finger in hopes of being healed. Myth or not, many visitors give it a shot.

Source: Travel and Leisure by Stephen Casale/Wikipedia

This article was first published on 11 January 2018 and updated on 1 April 2024

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Some people might be in love with Istanbul – as I am. Others may find it polluted and overpopulated and some are just not city people at all. 

But there’s one thing everyone is agreed on, FOOD! It’s so delicious!

Vegetarians, vegans or meat-eating Iranians like myself just can’t resist trying everything the City has to offer. And that’s a lot! Istanbul’s multinational background means its cuisine presents the best tastes from around the world. 

I’d like to share my favourite food options from both sides of the Bosphorus! 

Get some snacks and be prepared for a gourmet tour.

Back to its roots (Çırağan Palace – Beşiktaş)

Yes, döner is delicious and it’s hard to say no to a lahmacun. But what about authentic ottoman cuisine? Would you like to dine like a sultan? If the answer is yes (and money isn’t an issue) visit Kempinski Hotel Çırağan Palace and dine whilst enjoying a breathtaking view of the Bosphorus.

Start with a glass of sherbet, a traditional Turkish drink of sweetened flavoured water. I’ve tried to find good sherbets in Istanbul and Çırağan Palace serves the best ones.

Next, the most scrumptious appetizers and main courses appear at the table.

To make this authentic dining experience excellent (and sweet) ask for traditional baklava which is a definite must-try here!

A pearl in the city centre (Taksim)

From the most expensive dining let’s jump to literally the cheapest place in the City – Al Rayan in Taksim.

From the name, you can guess Turkish food isn’t served here.  If you’re a foodie traveller you’ll know the best taste to be found in the Middle East is Syrian! Al Rayan serves the most delicious Syrian food right in the centre of Istanbul for extremely friendly prices. 

For a long time this place was well known among local Arabs but recently Turks and travellers have been spotted there. A year ago, the staff could only speak Arabic but that has changed and now you can order in Turkish and English too. 

I’d highly recommend you try Arabic Shawarma but make sure to split it with a friend as the portion is huge!

For tourists (Sultanahmet)

Sultanahmet can be a tricky place to find good food. Sultanahmet is a tourist area and as a result, things are overpriced. But don’t worry, just a few minutes walk from Hagia Sophia will bring you to a nice restaurant called Ortaklar. Personally, I love this place for its delicious çorba (soup). It also has the approval of my vegetarian friends as a wonderful place to eat. They have choices of mostly Turkish food and offer free tea (çay) after your meal. Take my advice – avoid apple tea. Stick with Turkish.

For steak lovers/ vegetarians and healthy food eaters

Nişantaşı is the best place to be.

For meat eaters…

There are plenty of steakhouses and Salt Bae (Nusret Gökçe), himself has a restaurant there.

Don’t hesitate to order whatever your tummy desires. Everything is scrumptious. Nusret knows a thing or two about meat.

For vegetarians and healthy eaters…

Healthy / vegetarian food can be found at Plus Kitchen, a chain of restaurants in Istanbul that values organic food. During breakfast, lunch and dinner hours the place is very crowded so make sure to go early.

Good old fast food (Beşiktaş)

I know “hot dog in Turkey” sounds a bit bizarre and out of place but you haven’t been to Beer Hall! The BEST hot dogs I’ve ever had in my life! Yes,  they’re a bit pricey but they are so worth it! The only issue you will face is that menu is completely in Turkish but the lady who makes hot dogs speaks English well so don’t hesitate to ask her for help. Be aware that Beer Hall is always crowded, especially during the weekends as they’re not only famous for their food but beer as well.

Go Classy (Beşiktaş)

Beer Hall with its atmosphere will definitely bring to mind your college days. 

If you want something a bit classier,  Vogue is right next door to Beer Hall. 

Vogue is a rooftop restaurant, bar, and club that enjoys, in my opinion, the most spectacular view of the City.

One more must-try! (Everywhere)

Originally çiğ köfte was made from raw meat. It is now illegal to sell raw çiğ köfte in Istanbul and it has been substituted with a vegetarian option which is available everywhere in the City in special “çiğ köfte” restaurants. Usually, çiğ köfte is the only food they serve. 

I  have visited many çiğ köfte restaurants but so far my favourite one is Oses. It has shops all over Istanbul so just find one and give it a try!

You don’t have to be a history lover or an Ottoman culture admirer to visit Istanbul. If spending your days roaming around dusty museums doesn’t interest you, explore the City and enjoy its culture through the endless number of restaurants that combine Turkish, Greek, Armenian, Jewish, Arabic, Persian and other cuisines. 

How could you not be tempted by the enchanting smells everywhere you go in the City?

Ola is a passionate traveller with more than 10 years experience of backpacking around the world. She loves Middle Eastern culture. Istanbul, in particular, has always fascinated her and even though she lives there no longer, there’s a hope that one day they will be together again. She currently resides in Alexandria, Egypt

This article was first published on September 19, 2017

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Introduction and photographs by Julia Bayne

Have you fallen in love with Istanbul yet? 

Previously known as Constantinople and before that Byzantium, the largest city and principal seaport of contemporary Türkiye is now waiting for you! 

As an imperial power for more than 2,500 years, the city was the capital of the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires.  Acting as both bridge and barrier, it has found itself between conflicting waves of religion and culture. For most of those years, it was one of the most desired cities in the world. 

Istanbul holds layers of this history and intrigue which, should you choose to be curious, a 21st-century short stay can begin to uncover. If history isn’t your thing, you’ll still find a wealth of sensory experience and generous hospitality you’ll never forget.

Come and see what all the fuss is about!

Let’s go to Istanbul

If you want to do more than merely scratch the surface of Istanbul, you need a good couple of weeks, although not everyone has that luxury. A short stay with a carefully planned itinerary will still allow you to explore the essentials, although it will inevitably leave you with an insatiable hunger for more. 

Any first-time visitor to Istanbul immediately becomes aware of the sense of ancient culture, a legacy of the city’s distinguished history as the capital of three empires – the Roman, the Byzantine and the Ottoman. For nearly a thousand years this was one of the dominant cities of the Western and Near-Eastern worlds.

Besides the staggering wealth of its historical monuments, contemporary Istanbul is memorable for its vibrant, lively atmosphere, and, with the added magic of the city’s sitting astride the Bosphorus straits and straddling two continents, it continues to fulfil the fantasies of visitors seeking a taste of the orient on the very edge of Europe.

To truly immerse yourself in this vital, energetic city, where history lives shoulder-to-shoulder with modern life, it’s important to find the right place to stay.

Istanbul Place Apartments – historic apartments in Galata

Istanbul Place Apartments offers short-stay apartment rentals that place you at its very heart, offering a real-life experience of the Galata neighbourhood. 

Owned by a Turkish-British family, international IT consultant Tarkan and professional photographer Julia bring together the best of their Turkish and British cultures to create Istanbul’s finest heritage apartment rentals.

Here’s an excerpt from an interview* in which Julia tells us more about Istanbul Place Apartments. 

*Interview by Harjit Sohotey-Khan.

Tell me about Istanbul Place Apartments. What’s your vision for the business?

We wanted to bring together the best that our two cultures and backgrounds could offer, to help travellers from every direction fall in love with Istanbul. Galata’s full of fabulous 19th Century architecture with European influences, for which I felt an unspoken understanding from the beginning. I’ve been able to respond to neglected buildings and bring apartments back to feeling ‘well-loved’ with our renovation work and creative flair. As an insider, Tarkan communicates very well with property owners, authorities and trades. He has great project management skills and can turn things around within tight deadlines. We handle guest enquiries and business development between us, often with very different perspectives!

Turkish hospitality is legendary and we’re consistently thrilled to be able to offer it in stylish historic accommodation with unusual attention to detail. We hope to be able to carry on carrying on and to grow a little, always improving.

How do you create more of a local experience for your guests?

The apartments themselves are full of location-specific, bygone era character which we try to emphasise with interior design, books and furnishing. One of us always welcomes our guests in person to introduce their Istanbul home and neighbourhood and to be as helpful as possible with settling in. We’re all then on hand for the whole visit via WhatsApp, phone or text as little or as much as required.

We also offer walking tours with one of our well-educated, intuitive female guides. These can be an introductory orientation walk or a more in-depth experience. For example, there’s an ‘Artisan’ option, visiting the ateliers and workshops of craftspeople we know, or a ‘Foodie’ experience to sample rich and diverse Turkish cuisine that can otherwise be hard to access.

What do you love most about Turkish Culture and hospitality?

In my experience Turkish people have a deep love for life, with all its flaws, that’s infectious and inclusive. The generosity, both material and in spirit, seeps into you as a traveller and you leave as a bigger-hearted, better person. Your waistline doesn’t usually escape the growth either!

You can read the full interview with Julia here:

The apartments

Tarkan and Julia understand the importance of location and that’s why all their apartments* are in Galata (*except Pera Place).

All the apartments are within historic buildings boasting high ceilings, large windows and atmospheric original features, yet renovated for stylish modern living and furnished for comfort.

The interiors below are quite typical of the apartments.

So much to see and do

When you travel to a big city like Istanbul where there is so much to see and do, you need to plan your trip and organize it well. You can visit the historical places and sights of the city and discover Istanbul’s most attractive corners in a few days if you have a good plan. Istanbul.com is a useful website to help when you sit down to prepare your plan. 

If you want some suggestions of things to do during your stay it’s always a good idea to ask someone who lives there. Here are Julia’s 5 favourite things to do in Istanbul.

* Jump on a ferry across the Bosphorus with little or no plan for the other side.

* Share a sunset drink on the Petraki Place rooftop, to the sound of the muezzins across the city calling for prayer.

* Wander around Topkapı Palace and gardens on a Sunday.

* Treasure hunt in the antique bazaars of Üsküdar or Kadiköy.

* Spend time over a meal with Tarkan’s lovely family, either in their home or a lively neighbourhood meyhane restaurant with rakı and roving musicians.

Useful information

To find out more about Istanbul Place Apartments, please visit their informative website that provides details of how to reach the apartments from Istanbul and Sabiha Gökçen airports, information about Galata and the surrounding areas, full details about each apartment and a facility to book your stay directly.

Website: Istanbul Place

Connect with Istanbul Place Apartments on social media for news and regular updates.

Facebook: Istanbul Place Apartments

Twitter: @istanbulplace

Instagram: istanbulplace

LinkedIn: Istanbul Place Apartment

Pinterest: Istanbul Place Apartments

Istanbul Place Apartments on Tripadvisor

Holder of the Traveller’s Choice award, Istanbul Place Apartments is #1 of 540 apartments in Istanbul  in Istanbul.

You can find more details and read guest reviews here.

This is a sponsored article in association with Istanbul Place Apartments.

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Photos by Lisa Morrow.

What made you first visit Turkey?

I was 24 and on my first big overseas trip. Australia is a long way from anywhere so it’s common to save up hard to travel for extended periods, because you don’t know when you’ll be able to afford another expensive plane ticket. Like many young Australians at the time I was living in a mad share house in Hammersmith (26 of us crammed into three bedrooms and a lounge. I counted myself lucky to have my own room under the stairs!). I became friends with a woman from Melbourne and we hitchhiked through the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland together. When she said she was going to Greece I tagged along, then followed her to Turkey. It was during the Gulf War and when her parents found out where she was they asked her to leave, but I stayed on for three months. I only left because my visa ran out.

Was it love at first sight?

Yes, it was. From the moment I stepped off the ferry in Marmaris in 1990 I was hooked. Back then the seafront was lined with palm trees, there were people dressed in traditional clothing walking along the waterfront and phaetons with horses adorned in colourful saddlery lined the street waiting for passengers. I’d never seen anything like it before and the atmosphere was intoxicating.

What first inspired you to write about your experiences in Turkey/Istanbul?

I’d love to say something romantic and inspiring but actually it was in response to people’s misconceptions. On visits back to Australia I’d always be asked whether I had to wear a headscarf, if foreigners were forced to convert, and questions more appropriately associated with Islamic states than a country like Turkey with a majority Muslim population and a secular constitution. I started to write about my experiences in Istanbul and Turkey to show people the similarities we share. No matter who we are, what religion (or not) we follow, or where we’re born, we laugh, learn, fall in love, marry, make difficult decisions, work, have kids, ambitions and dreams, face hardships and loss, and eventually die. How we react, celebrate or mourn is where the differences come in.

Tell us more about your writing. Which came first, Inside Out in Istanbul, your books or the articles you write for other media like CNN and the BBC?

The first edition of my first book, Inside out in Istanbul, started everything off in 2011. A few years later I began writing a blog of the same name because I wanted the freedom to write when and as ideas came to me, rather than having to wait until I had another complete manuscript ready. This let me play with ideas and writing styles, and share my passion for living and exploring everyday life in Istanbul with others. I must have been doing something right because I was invited to write for a couple of international magazines. That lead to researching how to get my articles in other media outlets, learning how to pitch ideas, interview people and craft stories. In between I rewrote and released a second edition of Inside Out In Istanbul (https://amzn.to/3KnANtH), wrote a memoir (https://amzn.to/3MvSvN0) and two more collections of stories, one focusing on Turkey in general (https://amzn.to/38A4LgG) and the other on Istanbul in particular (https://amzn.to/3kHXkah). I’ve worked very hard and it’s really rewarding to see my byline in well respected media like The Guardian, World Nomads, Al-Monitor and others.

How many books have you written? Which is your favourite and why?

I’ve written a total of four books, so far. It’s difficult to say which one I like best because they’re all special to me in different ways. However if I had to choose, I’d say my latest, Longing for Istanbul: The Words I Haven’t Said Yet is my favourite, because the pieces in it best represent me both personally and as a writer. I’m a long term resident of Turkey, speak the language reasonably well (on my good days) and am trained in sociology. The pieces in Longing run the gamut of me as a story teller, an academic, an explainer of Turkish culture and society as understood by a foreigner and a daydreamer. It reveals Istanbul, the city I love, warts and all.

What is your most memorable experience in Turkey?

Believe it or not, it was in a hospital when my husband Kim went for an angiogram. Before the procedure a nurse came to Kim’s room to take down his details and I helped with the answers as my Turkish was better than his at that stage. It was just the usual, name, parents’ names, date of birth, place of birth and so on. When I said he was born in Australia she was astonished we’d come from so far away. She then moved on to the next question. “Hangi kangaru?” I thought OK, this is weird, she just said “Which kangaroo?” but then I’ve been asked lots of strange questions at inappropriate times in Turkey so I gave her some information about them. She looked at me quite strangely and repeated the question. After more confusion we gave up and moved on. Then she put a line in Kim’s upper thigh and injected in dye so the doctor could see what was happening in his heart. 

After the procedure (during which I sat in a waiting area with four old Turkish men in hospital gowns who all asked if Kim had had a stroke. When I said no, he was just in for a test, they were adamant he get a stent put in now, to save time) Kim was taken back to his room. They put a huge rock, more like a lump of concrete, on his thigh to close the vein and he had to drink three litres of water in a very short time to flush out the dye. Naturally he needed to go to the toilet pretty quickly. No one answered the buzzer so I went in search of the nurse. She reminded me Kim wasn’t allowed to get up and told me to go to the men’s toilet and get an ördek. A duck, I thought, as in quack, quack? I looked at her in amazement and asked her to repeat what she’d said. Yes, I had to get a duck. From the men’s toilets. On a hospital ward where all the patients were Turkish guys wearing skimpy gowns open down the back.   

At the door of the loos I very slowly and nervously peered inside, shakily calling out ‘Merhaba’ to signal my presence. To my relief no one answered so I entered and looked around. There on the left was a shelf piled high with plastic urinal bottles, aka ducks in Turkish. Back in the room I handed one over to Kim and we laughed together, rather hysterically I’ll admit. I had to go back to work for a few hours after that and I’m not going to tell you what Kim did when he needed a fresh one.

And the kangaroo question? Hours later, when the results were through and we learned there was nothing serious to worry about, I realised the nurse didn’t say “Hangi kangaru?” She’d said “Hangi kan grubu?”, to learn Kim’s blood group. I can only imagine what she told her family about foreigners over dinner that night. 

What is your favourite thing about living in Istanbul? And your least favourite thing?

The best thing about living in Istanbul is I’m never bored. There’s always something to do, museums to visit, art exhibitions to see, different neighbourhoods to explore, new restaurants to try and friends to meet. My least favourite thing is the way the city is constantly being redeveloped. I do appreciate archaeological and historical sites being restored but hate the increase in new, much taller apartment blocks being constructed. It means less light on the streets, acres of dirt and dust and too much noise in an already very loud and chaotic city.

If you could only choose one place to visit in Istanbul, where would it be? And why?

This is the hardest question you’ve asked me because I really can’t choose just one place. Dilapidated historical buildings, archaeological sites and new parks are being repaired, rediscovered and opened all the time so I never get to the end of my Istanbul ‘must see list’. I just keep adding to it. The places I most want to visit are all the small out of the way mosques, significant local tombs loved by Turks, Greek and Armenian orthodox churches with their beautiful iconostasis, rarely used synagogues and everything that has made Istanbul a cosmopolitan, vibrant and enticing city throughout it’s long history.

What is your top piece of advice for anyone planning to live in Istanbul?

Do your homework. If you’ve only ever visited Istanbul for short stays likely you’ll have stars in your eyes because everything’s pretty much laid on for tourists and everyday life seems easy. However outside the tourist centres far fewer people speak English, things happen in ways you can’t and don’t expect and changes, both big and small, are constant. Join Facebook groups, ask lots of questions and search the internet for blogs written by people giving a realistic picture of life here. Most importantly don’t move to Istanbul thinking you can pick up a teaching or other job straight away. Make sure you have enough savings to cover you for at least three months and remember, there’s no shame in recognising when a dream needs to stay just that.

Where can readers purchase your books?

All my books are available from Amazon and online bookstores and as of the first week in May, from Mephisto bookshops in Istanbul. They have three branches, in Kadikoy, Beşiktaş and Taksim.

What do you hope your readers will take away from your books?

I could write pages in answer to this question (after all, I am a writer), but really, what I most want people to do after reading my books is to look at the life around them, whether they’re in the country where they were born or their new home in Turkey, and see it for what it is. It’s tempting to always compare where you are with what’s more familiar or what you’ve left behind, but in doing that you miss out on the lessons, joy and meaning of what you’re experiencing right now.  

What’s next? Is there another book in the pipeline?

Yes, there is. It’s early days but I’m working on a guide to Istanbul paths less well known. I hope to release it later this year. Watch this space!

Inside Out In Istanbul

Social media links

https://www.facebook.com/InsideOutInIstanbul

Twitter: goreme1990

https://www.instagram.com/insideoutinistanbul/?hl=en

https://www.linkedin.com/in/lisa-morrow-turkey/

Lisa Morrow was born in Sydney, Australia and grew up in a leafy middle-class North Shore suburb. After finishing high school she went to Sydney University but failed to find her niche. She dropped out and in the following years worked in numerous jobs, including as a public servant, cleaner, sales assistant, waitress, barmaid and car counter, before going overseas. Once there she hitchhiked through the UK, travelled in Europe and arrived in Turkey just as the Gulf War was starting. Her three-month stay in the small central Anatolian village of Göreme changed her life. 

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