Surrounded by the sea on three sides, Turkey has been blessed with an abundance of fish. Although fish is not considered a main source of food for Turks, the people living near the seas, especially those in the Black Sea region, are very creative in their kitchens when it comes to the sea dweller.

Turkey’s national fish

Hamsi, or Anatolian anchovies, could be considered Turkey’s national fish. Abundant in the Black Sea, especially during the winter, it is more than a simple sea creature for the people of the Black Sea region. Locals have become very attached to all things hamsi related and, as a result, the fish has become a significant part of life in the region. Poems and songs have been written about hamsi. Bards from the north even travelled around Anatolia singing songs about the glorious fish. In fact, an entire cuisine has been devoted to hamsi in northern Turkey, and the locals use it in almost every dish.

This silver, delicious beauty in all of its 12 to 15-centimetre glory is the tiny king of Turkish dinner tables. During the winter months, when the Black Sea is crawling with hamsi, this shiny little fish is quite a bargain.

There is a saying among native Black Sea people, “Foreigners eat hamsi without bones, but the people of the Black Sea eat it whole.” Indeed, most people eat hamsi without removing its bones, pan-fried whole.

Fried hamsi

Frying is the easiest way to prepare hamsi. Wash the hamsi and cover them with either regular flour or cornflour. Place them in a large well-oiled pan and fry for a couple of minutes on each side.

Hamsi with rice

Turks have always respected their past, and this is also the case when it comes to hamsi. This incredible fish was once the king of the Ottoman imperial kitchen, as well. Sultans preferred to eat it with a special kind of “pilav,” a dish made with rice. Although it is not as easy as the fried hamsi, Turks still cherish this tradition in their homes.

The Laz, an ethnic minority in the northeast of Turkey, live in the verdant Kaçkar Mountains that seem to crash right down into the Black Sea. 

This recipe comes straight out of the Laz heartland

Hamsili pilav

Ingredients:

1 kg of fresh, whole anchovies
1.5 cups of white rice
1 large onion, finely chopped
1/3 cup currants
¼ cup pine nuts
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ cup chopped dill
Salt
Black pepper

Preparation:

Sautée the pine nuts in the vegetable oil on medium heat, add the finely chopped onions and keep cooking until the onions turn golden but still soft. Add the rice and continue cooking for a few minutes. Add the currants, dill, black pepper and salt. Mix well and add enough water to cover the mixture. Cook over low heat until the water has cooked off. The mixture is ready when the rice is still a bit “underdone” or “yarım pişmiş” (“half-cooked”),

Debone the anchovies and remove their guts, patting them flat to create mini filets (or, better yet, ask your fish seller to do the deboning for you). Cover the bottom and sides of a well-oiled oven tray or casserole dish with the anchovies. Spread half of the pilaf over the anchovies. Add another layer of anchovies on top of the stuffing and then spread the remaining pilaf on top of the fish, as if layering a cake. Finally, add one more layer of anchovies. Add enough water to cover the top layer of anchovies. Drizzle a little vegetable oil on the surface and bake at 200 degrees Celsius until the water has been completely absorbed by the rice or about 30 minutes.

To serve, use a sharp knife to score the pilaf’s top into square portions and then use a spatula to take the squares out of the tray.

Pickled hamsi

The people of the Black Sea have taken their love for the fish one step further by creating hamsi pickles.

Hamsi pickles (turşu) are quite easy to make and similar to any other pickles. After a thorough cleaning, the hamsi is put into glass jars or plastic cans and vinegar and oil are added. You can also put bay leaves and lemon in the jar. The pickles must be stored away from direct sunlight or in the fridge. Hamsi pickles can be stored unopened for more than a year.

Afiyet Olsun

You can find more hamsi recipes here

Sources: Daily Sabah/ Miraç Geyik//Istanbul Eats

This article was first published on 9 February 2020 and updated on 10 September 2025.

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Immortalised in Rose Macaulay’s classic novel The Towers of Trebizond, the sprawling town of Trabzon is the largest port along Eastern Türkiye’s Black Sea coast.

The earliest known settlement was founded in the 7th century BC by colonists from Miletos, the greatest of the ancient Greek Ionian cities. It grew in prosperity through trade with Persia (Iran), with camel caravans travelling along the Anatolian Silk Road, laden with silk and spices. Trabzon was an important stop on the Silk Road and it remains the Black Sea’s busiest port. 

Trabzon, the capital city of the Trabzon province, is dotted with reminders of its rich past, including castles, historical churches and monasteries, museums, a fine art gallery, mosques, inns and baths, fountains and bridges, and more. There are far too many to include in one article so we’ve chosen a few.

Atatürk Pavilion (Atatürk Köşkü)

The pavilion, designed in the Black Sea architectural style, was constructed by banker Konstantin Kabayanidis as a summer residence in the early 19th century.

Located amidst dense forests on the Soğuksu ridge, about 4 kilometers from the city, this charming white stucco pavilion is now surrounded by meticulously maintained gardens and serves as a museum dedicated to Atatürk memorabilia.

The family gave the pavilion to Atatürk when he visited the city in 1924, although he only actually visited Trabzon and stayed there on three brief occasions, the last being in 1937.

Trabzon Castle (Trabzon Kalesi)

Although called Trabzon Castle, the walls did not function as a castle but as a defensive fortification surrounding the old town.

Most of the ramparts are still standing today with the oldest ones dating back to the Roman Period, 4th century BC. 

The walls can be easily seen whilst walking around Trabzon or from the bridge – there’s no special effort needed. 

The Arsenal

The Arsenal is the most striking structure in Trabzon. According to the Yıldız Palace records, it was constructed in 1305, a date confirmed by the inscription and the signature of Sultan Abdülhamit II over the door.

The Arsenal includes two circular structures, one inside of the other. The inside one is four-storied whereas the outer is three-storied. Both structures include 3 windows with oval arches. A high protective wall surrounds the Arsenal. During the Russian occupation between 1916 and 1918, the Arsenal served as an ammunition dump, and its roof was demolished by an explosion on July 9, 1919.

Sümela Monastery

The stunning mountain Sümela Monastery lies 48km inland from Trabzon but is well worth the trip.

The monastery’s unforgettable setting, clinging to the sheer rock face above the heavily wooded slopes and mountain mists, makes it look more Tibetan than Turkish.

Sümela Monastery is undoubtedly the region’s biggest tourist attraction. Both the interior and the exterior of the monastery are covered with beautiful frescoes – depicting everything from the Virgin Mary to the Last Judgement. The earliest examples date back to the ninth century, but most are from the 19th century.

Uzungöl

Located south of Trabzon city, Uzungöl is one of the most popular places to enjoy the beauty of nature. The village of Uzungöl, which suitably translates to “Long Lake”, is surrounded by mountains with a long lake in the middle. Over the years, the picturesque lake, its village and the surrounding valley have become popular tourist attractions.

Shopping

There are a number of places to shop in Trabzon. The most famous amongst them is the Russian Bazaar also called Avrupalı Pazarı in Turkish meaning the “European Market”. 

Here you can mingle with the locals as you wander around the alleyways and browse or shop for everything from clothing to souvenirs, jewellery, footwear and even electronic goods.

Afterwards, take a break at one of the nearby cafes or restaurants and sample some of the local cuisine.

Local cuisine

The Black Sea region is synonymous with hamsi (anchovy) fishing so it is no surprise that locals make hamsi a main ingredient in dishes like soup, meze or even dessert.

In the morning or for dinner, the smell of these black and silver fish dipped in corn flour and fried in hot oil makes its way into every room of the house while, on the street, it is served on a loaf of bread with salad, as a sandwich.

Hamsi Buğulaması (Steamed Anchovies) 

 The cleaned and washed hamsi are placed in a shallow pan and topped with sliced onions, tomatoes and sliced lemon.

Water and oil are added, the pan is covered to stop the steam from escaping and the dish is cooked for 10 minutes or so. Parsley can be used to garnish.

Trabzon Pidesi

Pide with butter, egg, cheese, ground meat or sucuk are the pides well-known today as “Trabzon pidesi.”

Yağlı pide is generously topped with butter before baking. Yumurtalı (egg) pide is the same with the addition of an egg, which is generally broken onto the dough and spread without much mixing. Peynirli pide is topped with a local cheese called “kolof cheese,” which resembles young kaşar or mozzarella.

Akçaabat Köftesi 

Akçaabat Köftesi (meatballs) is a grilled dish of minced meat, a type of köfte, found traditionally in Akçaabat in Trabzon. These small meatballs are both healthy and delicious, made with spices, cooked on the grill and served hot.

We’ll leave you with this short video of Trabzon from Go Türkiye …

Sources: Explore Trabzon/culturetrip.com/Turkish Cuisine Portal

Featured photograph of Trabzon town courtesy of Ulutour Travel

This article was first published on 8 March 2022 and updated on 27 August 2024.

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Driving down the roads of Artvin in the Black Sea can sometimes feel like heading to a fairy tale land above the clouds. 

This dreamlike land mesmerizes its visitors with its mountains, reaching as high as 4,000 meters, forests of tall pine trees, rock formations and steep valleys carved by the Çoruh River, one of the longest-running rivers in Turkey.

Situated on the border of Georgia, Artvin is surrounded by the high mountains of Kaçkar, Karçal, and Yalnızçam providing a magnificent backdrop for the houses of the town lying on the upper slopes of the valley.

This breathtaking place is among the wonders everyone should see at least once.

Artvin experiences the Black Sea region’s signature climate. The city is very wet and mild by the coast, and as a result, is heavily forested. The rain, a very frequent visitor to the region, turns to snow at higher altitudes, and the peaks are very cold in winter.

The people of Artvin

Caucasian and Black Sea cultures are dominant in the region. Artvin is home to the Laz, a seafaring race of obscure Caucasian origins who migrated to the city when the modern northern borders were drawn following the Turkish War of Independence. 

They are remote cousins of the Georgians but with the important difference that they converted to Islam early and have remained staunch Muslims.

The Laz are relatively progressive in outlook and in their dress, which is colourful and fashionable. Often extroverted by nature, they traditionally enjoy dancing and playing the bagpipes.

The folkloric dance, Artvin Barı- generally known as “Atabarı,” the dance dedicated to the founder of the modern Republic of Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk – is the signature dance of the city. Every year, the Traditional Bull Fighting Festival and Kafkasör (Caucasian Cultural Festival) attract thousands of tourists to the city.

A culinary tradition

Artvin hosts a rich culinary tradition. Hamsi, or Anatolian anchovies, is abundant in the region and could be considered Turkey’s national fish. Locals have become very attached to all things hamsi related and, as a result, the fish has become a significant part of life in the region.

Alternative tourism

However, Artvin’s main tourist attraction is unquestionably its nature and alternative tourism opportunities such as camping, skiing, jeep safari, rafting and canoeing are popular.

There are various trekking routes visitors can explore to discover the area. One of the highest mountains in Turkey, Mount Kaçkar, is probably the most coveted trekking route. Mountaineering groups and mountaineers complete the Trans-Kaçkar route by walking through Yusufeli Yaylalar Village to Rize – Çamlıhemşin Ayder Highlands. If that trail is a bit too difficult, you can take various other routes through the Altıparmak Mountains.

Hunting is also allowed during the region’s open season. However, visiting hunters are advised to hire a local guide to avoid getting lost in the thick forests of Artvin.

Sightseeing

Artvin is home to three castle ruins.

The first is the Şavşat Castle located in the Söğütlü Quarter in the city. Built by the Armenian Bagratunis dynasty in the ninth century, the castle was later used by the Ottomans. Today the castle is abandoned but parts of its towers are still visible.

Also built by the Kingdom of Bagratuni in the 10th century, Artvin Castle is located on a huge rocky outcropping near the Çoruh River.

The third, Ardanuç Castle, is among the most significant ruins in the region. Dating back to the region’s ancient civilizations, the castle had been an attraction for centuries, due to its unique interior design. Even the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent recorded his interest in this castle.

National parks

Artvin province is also home to several national parks, the most famous being Karagöl-Sahara National Park, which came under state protection in 1994. Covering 3,251 hectares, the national park is composed of two areas. The Karagöl side consists of kale and thick trees and is used as a recreational area by locals. In the Sahara part of the national park, locals continue traditional Black Sea highland life.

Hatila Valley National Park consists of a steep-sided river valley at the eastern end of the Kaçkar Mountains. The area is close to the Black Sea but has a micro Mediterranean climate with warm summers, cool winters and plentiful rain throughout the year. The park’s forests and surrounding areas are rich in wildlife and include the grey wolf, leopard, and brown bear.

Want to know more?

Click here for more information about Artvin.

Sources: Explorer Turkey/Discover Turkey

This article was first published o

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